Roasted Duckling

Roasted Duck has been a culinary delight for centuries. Its flavorful meat and crispy skin make it a truly special dish, and one key to perfectly cooked duck is rendering the fat properly, which results in that coveted crispiness and succulent meat. As general advice, scoring the skin before cooking helps the fat to escape, and starting the duck in a cold pan on low heat can maximize the effect.

Now, let's step back in time to explore a recipe for “ROAST DUCKLINGS” from The Complete Housekeeper, and Professed Cook, a fascinating cookbook published in 1803 in England. This book is attributed to Mary Smith, a housekeeper who served various members of English nobility, offering us a glimpse into the kitchens of the past. We have previously featured a recipe for Roasted Duck from the same collection, which differs from this preparation in that it is skinless. The matter of an adult duck versus a younger one will affect the tenderness of the meat, but either recipe can be adapted to whatever duck is available.

According to this early 19th-century recipe, the preparation begins with scalded, defeathered, and drawn young ducks. The cavity is then seasoned simply with a lump of butter and a little shredded sage. The ducklings are spitted–likely referring to roasting on a rotating spit over an open fire–and initially roasted for fifteen minutes. Basting with butter ensures that the skin becomes crisp and attains a light brown hue. It is notable that this recipe does not include any mention of seasoning, not even salt. Was it assumed that the various sauces available at serving would provide enough seasoning for the meat? It remains unclear, but we do recommend salting the butter used in this recipe for a better result.

The finished dish is presented with “some brown gravy under them” and served hot, accompanied by “some green sauce and scalded gooseberries in a boat.” Imagine the aroma of roasted duck, subtly flavored with sage, its skin beautifully browned and crackling. The richness of the duck would be complemented by a savory brown gravy, while the “green sauce” (likely a tart herbal sauce) and the sweet-tart “scalded gooseberries” would provide a delightful contrast, cutting through the richness of the poultry. This was a dish designed to impress, showcasing both the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the chef in achieving that perfect crisp skin and flavorful interior. It's a testament to the enduring appeal of simple, yet elegant, cooking.

• 1 whole adult duck, or 2 smaller ducks
• 4 tbsp. butter
• Sage
• Sauces or gooseberries for serving (optional)

TO ROAST DUCKLINGS.